Ghaziabad

Life in Ghaziabad- 2 – Visit to Haridwar and Rishikesh

As I lived thru’ the conditions there, I was mostly, busy in my job which took away a good 12 hours (Minimum) everyday.

Once in a year I traveled to both these holy places, and stayed there for nearly 5 days, besides, visiting at times taking visitors from south as a guide. My first visit to this place was in 1973. In Haridwar I stayed at the Ayyappa temple briefly. Here food was served in Kerala traditional style which included rice, a side dish and diluted butter milk. Such a food was always delicious especially when one is starving for food away from home.
Outside, the temple, there was a small café run by a south Indian couple. I took breakfast from there on the next day, and this too was very homely.
I went to the area known as HARI KI PADI where having a dip in Ganges absolves all sins committed by the devotee (so that he / she can start committing more sins later) and absolves the person of all past wrong doings.

I saw lots of shops in the vicinity and people were buying something or the other memorabilia. I purchased color stone necklace set- with ear rings and a matching ring for the finger. I procured 3 sets. (I procured several such ornaments in my subsequent trips in the later years.) The sad and most regrettable fact is I do not have even one set of them. I do not know why I not maintained even one set for myself. I will definitely, buy few of them if I visit the place again in the coming years. The price for each set was Rs.1.50 in those days and the heavy and more decorative ones were slightly more. I’m sure the current prices must be shocking to me.

On the banks of Ganges, one can spot many small pieces of wood engraved by the force of the river carrying from the inception and leaving on the banks as the water recedes in pre-monsoon days. I collected a lot of such pieces, which were light in weight and beautiful in shapes. I had to loose them to many friends and relatives who could not travel to this place. In this case also I do not have even a single specimen in my collection. So is the case when it comes to collecting stones of odd shapes and colors.

I traveled to Rishikesh by a cab – along with few co-passengers. I could have traveled by the bus, but it was too crowded and heavily dusted covering its original blue color. In Rishikesh, I took a room in the UP tourist house which was just open for visitors. The deluxe room was rented for Rs.15 (Fifteen rupees only).The reservation clerk was very friendly with me and got me a very spacious room for the next three days without raising the rent. All I did was spoke to him praising his dedicated services away from his own home some where in UP. He suggested to me that I could book room in advance by sending a reply paid card. I followed this procedure for the next few years, and got the best of the rooms.

I imagined the bank of Ganges River to be neat and clean, being a holy place. On the first morning, I met a Sikh (Sardar) orderly and butler engaged for looking after the tourists. He was an all rounder and a good talker. He made me coffee and toast for breakfast. He was very courteous and informative.

I had a dip in the holy river just across the road. The water level was very low and clear – pre-monsoon condition. Sardar later came to my room and gave me a lecture / talk covering the entire process and needs to stay in Rishikesh.

When Sardar realized that I was close to the reservation Clerk, he started showing extra care for me. He provided me with brand new white bed sheets every day for the next three days of stay. He gave me a program which is like this:

1. Go by walk to Githa Bahwan (Ashram) across the river Ganges taking Lakshman Joola(hanging bridge).
2. As soon as you cross the bridge, there is a temple for lord Siva.
3. One can worship Siva and proceed to the Githa Ashram
4. There is a hall, veranda and green environment with facility to take bath in the holy river.
5. There is a restaurant by name Chotiwala. A well built man was sitting there with a long bunch of hair and depicting a comic figure in Hindu mythology.
6. This restaurant offered food which is a total vegetarian type. Onion was never served. (I do not know if this place still exists these days.)
7. I always opted for chapattis, puris or light pulka chapattis with plenty of vegetable dishes bedside’s green chilly, yogurt, pieces of lemon and mango. They also sold pan – beetle leaves and nuts.
8. There are gooseberry trees planted in the garden of Githa Bahwan. During the season they produce fruits of larger size.
9. There are shopping out-lets for tourists, and they sold anything from holy books to bed-sheets etc;
10. There are many persons on either side of the path, disguised as holy men / woman who invariably expect some kind of help by way of money from the passers. Beware of such people.

With these Ten Commandments of Sardar, I set my foot on the first day at Rishikesh for an on site survey of the place. There were plenty of Curry leave trees in the jungle on the bank of Ganges which were sending their fragrance with the breeze passing.

I passed few ashrams on my left side which were practicing and preaching Hindu Dharma to most devotees for the past decades. As I stepped on the hanging bridge- Lakshman Joola - I looked down and there, could see the Holy water visible very clearly like crystal. This is very same river which carries brown water during rainy season. I used to joke that one should take, only sugar and drink it like coffee.

Weather there is any sense in assuming all sorts of unholy thoughts; I could feel a sense of relief upon seeing the flow of Ganges so quietly, wave less and shining like a mirror. The Siva temple across the bridge had a fluttering flag of the Lord hoisted on the top. It looked like that it was never washed but, no one worried about it as it represented the ever powerful Siva.

As I walked further towards the Ashram, I saw holy men (and women) disguised as direct representative of God, and demanding money without much force. Some of them were half buried in the earth, some were covered with holy ash all over the body, and some were chanting the names of all available Gods and Goddesses, some were handicapped and managing similar acts with remaining body parts. I could see the visitors, giving away money in the form of 5 and 10 paisa coins. I hardly could see anyone offering coins of higher denomination.

Most of these people remained in the same place of their activity, going for answering call of nature etc; as necessary. Some had small huts above them containing everything they need absolutely. They had plastic sheets to protect them from rain. I did not talk to any one as I had no means of helping them.

As I approached Githa Bahwan, I could hear chanting of mantras by holy men. Their way of chanting was amusing to me as I’m used to the way they are chanted back home in South especially in Kerala and Tamil Nadu. To me it sounded as if they were reading loudly.
I did not bother too much; after all, Gods can be pleased the way the devotee could perform- but with full faith in Him. So, to me it was another method of praising Gods.

I clarified if there are activities in the evening or nights. I was told of daily Kirthans and Bhajans every day and participation is Free.

(In the evening I could hear this performance on the other side as I stood outside my accommodation.)

I felt too tired of walking the distance plus thirsty as well. So I went to the Chotiwala Restaurant on the left side of Githa Bahwan. I was greeted by the figure dressed like a fat man with attire of Tenali Rama. There were few occupants inside. I was accompanied by flies and insects as they too were devotee friendly. But they were very understanding and did not bother me much after I ordered my food. I asked for Chapattis and small dishes of various combinations of potato, peas, tomato, ladies’ finger etc; I also ordered, yogurt and salads- pieces of cucumber, lemon, and carrot. A long green chilly was stuck at the centre of yogurt, long enough to attach a flag to it

Being young, energetic and active person, I opted for unlimited thali – costing me more by 25 paisa. (Limited thali was priced Re.1.00), the salad was extra by another quarter of a rupee. In short I could eat sumptuously for this price of Rs.1.50.
If you compare this price to-day, it is equally costly in those days when the average price of best food was less than 75 paisa. In fact junk food in Delhi was 75 paisa only. Only the organized restaurants charged more for obvious reasons. I was given a (sweet) meeta pan free of charge.

It was around 3PM, and the sun was hot, but I felt like walking back – so that I could reach my room ready for a good cup of coffee. I had three books in my possession – all having small slokas about Lord Guruvayoor appan and one by name VILVA MANGALAM SWAMIYAR.

(This one is about a devoted priest who pushes away lord Krishna without realizing it is the Lord himself. Ultimately Vilvamangalam travels thru all places and reached a place called ANANTHAN KADU – the present name of this place is THIRUANANTHAPURAM, where the Lord shows his baby like body and absolves swami unto Himself.)

I still have this book and enjoy reading it, without worrying if Lord is watching me and preparing to appear in front of me eventually-------- I chanted the content several times for my grandmother(Kolazhi Chithi) every time I stayed in Kolazhi house.

Here I wish to say something which may not be acceptable to most of you. I saw power of God in the nature, greenery, flowing water, chirping of birds, and every place / location which was noiseless and quiet. So, I walked lonely many times to get solace. If I accompanied any one to any temple, it is purely to help the person(s),and not to upset them of their faith in God in their own version.

I also never believed in giving away any money to, any so called poor, but always to the needy that too when I’m convinced 100%

So in Haridwar also I did not pay any alms to any one. I came to my room by 5PM, and Sardar was already looking for me to provide cup of coffee. I thanked him for his very valuable information that made my initial tour very successful.

He was so delighted and happy I was given few biscuits free of charge – he refused to take payment for coffee and biscuits. Probably, no one had ever thanked him for his expert advice which I’m sure must have rendered some kind of support to the concerned visitor.

Here I wish to say that these valuable guidelines are very much in my mind like a deep rooted nail on a green tree. I visited this place many times and every time I re-called the association of Sardar.

In the evening, I did not want to trouble my good friend Sardar, and wanted to go for dinner elsewhere. I found out that the ashram next door offers light food for dinner. I found the place was over crowded and walked away in the opposite direction. Fortunately, I came across a wayside eatery and had my dinner with paper thin chapattis and baaji.

The evening was much cooler and I went to sleep after around 9 PM.
Sardar assured me to wake me up at any time in the morning.

I noticed many visitors who opted to stay for few days, took an early bath and dip in Ganges well before I got up. I never needed an alarm clock as my child hood habit triggered the biological clock which pushed me awoke and opened the eyes by 4AM, even if I had to bed by midnight.

So, after my shave and shower, I had my coffee and toasted bread -courtesy of Sardar. Then I was out strolling on the banks of Ganges flowing across my residence few steps away. I collected few pebbles and water blasted wood pieces. Later, I enjoyed several dips in the cols water of Ganges. Initially, I felt the coldness and gradually it disappeared. I did not wet my head till I decided to go back. The reason is my years could not absorb even a grain of water. So, I had three full dips at the fastest speed and wiped the years followed the head.

This routine, was followed very vigorously for the next 3 days. The only exception was my visit to MANASADEVI temple acre HARIKI PADI.

This place is also a holy place attracting pilgrims especially ladies. So many stories are attached to DEVI and the place has become famous.
I also had my darshan of Devi. as usual, here also I did not submit any demands but thanked the Goddess for being kind to me and all in the family.

It was easy for me to move around as I had minimum luggage. I cannot believe now, that I had toured the holy places like a free bird in my youth – 25 years young with absolute minimum expenses.

May be one day, some one will read this write-up and will be guided accordingly.

V.Sivasubramaniam
03-03-2010





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