A CHILDHOOD DREAM - Pilgrimage to Amaranath: During my school days, I learned about the formation of SIVA LINGAM by ice and located in Amaranath about 15,000 feet above the sea level. I also saw a black and white photo then (year 1963) My grandfather also narrated about this, told me stories about God Siva and his abodes on earth. To keep in tune, I learned few shlokas on God Siva – Lingashtakam etc; As years passed, my thoughts to visit some places on pilgrimage kept on consolidating year after year. So, in 1981, I had the blessing of going to Kasi / Varanasi along with my family and father in law and company, visiting also Allahabad, Gaya and Calcutta. Then, it took several years before I could undertake trekking to Kedarnath and Badrinath along with my wife in September 2011. (A separate note is kept in my saved files.) PROGRAMME: For some unknown reason, the urge to go to Amarnath became very strong this year and, I decided to make it somehow or the other. Initially I spoke to Hari (SIL of my co-brother Mr.Krishnan of Tanjore) With his help, gathered very important supporting documents – Health related, Medical clearance and general precautions needed for this visit. In the meantime, I gathered enough information related to the terrain, mode of transport / travel needs, dress code and many more facts. I also discussed the same with my spouse, daughter, son son-in-law and daughter-in-law who have initially objected to my going to Amaranath at the tender age 67! After several rounds of discussion, agreed to go to Amarnath. The end result was surprise to all as it turned out to be. PREPARATION: I started reviewing stock of woollen jackets, sweaters, and shawls, mufflers, hand gloves etc; Though there were plenty of these dresses a modern attire named THERMAL WEAR was missing. We procured the same from Bangalore, a new cap was being knitted by Anushruthi –my daughter-in-law and so on. Sheeba promised to spare a pair of woollen gloves and muffler. I decided to wear a simple cotton corduroy pair of pants and a denim full sleeve shirt to compliment the pants. I chose them as they were loose fit and could take in the thermal wear if needed! As we all spoke about pilgrimage to Amarnath, the subject quietened as the days passed. To be on the safe side, I had my routine medical check-up done as it was due since February 2016. My daughter Sheeba wanted us to be in Bangalore for few days in the first two weeks ( June 2016) of schooling for both Ayush and particularly for Sanvi – going to school for the first time! - For it was day care Sanvi was regular with. For Sanvi it was more of amusement than me of Amaranath! I packed my winter clothing for taking an opportunity to venture on pilgrimage. I kept enquiring with various tour operators for their cost, and received all options- trekking, by helicopter and so on; As we went to Bangalore, my son SUDHIN, was also planning something regarding my wish for going to Amaranath. I received return flight tickets to Delhi to meet him there, and flew on Thursday the 30th of June 2016.to Delhi. We met at the air-port –Terminal 3 – where my flight too had the arrival arrangement. We drove straight to Hotel Radisson Blue at Dwaraka. Sudhin had some official work and he was on completing it while I stayed at the hotel. I contacted all by kith and kin, using Wi-Fi system and informed them of my stay in Delhi. Spoke to my brother Ramakrishnan, who later came to hotel- very close to his residence-and we had brief talk, before going to his place for dinner. Sudhin joined me for dinner and we spent the next few hours chatting in an atmosphere warmer than his hospitality. We retired to our room by 10 PMand went to bed to sleep by 10.30 DAY-2 – Friday the 1st of July 2016. The morning hours were busy as Sudhin had his share of work related activities and we both went to Ambiance Mall in Gurgaon –a very large shopping mall- and Sudhin asked me to choose a replacement pair of shoes for my wearing out ones (SKECHERS of USA procured in 2007 when I was in Dubai and nearly worn out in 9 years of extensive use) I chose this time COLUMBIA brand from USA which is the best among all brands, and had better gripping power on any surface! In the evening we went to my brother’s house again, met his eldest daughter Subah and son-in-law Abhai, my sister Padma and brother-in-law Viswanathan besides Smitha. Again we all had exchange of familiar matters and while having dinner. We returned to Radisson Blue by 10.30 Pm Sudhin told me that we are going to Amaranath the next day! This was a surprise for me, as he had come to Delhi only to escort me for the pilgrimage. He planned the trip as his leave coincided with upcoming Eid holidays and hence synchronized it for my pilgrimage. He did not want to disclose the plan to anyone but me and family back in Bangalore. DAY-3- Saturday the 2nd of July 2016. Got up very early to check out and catch the flight to Srinagar leaving Dlehi at 08.45AM. We checked out at 05.30 AM and were in the air-port well on time. We had our breakfast at VANGO RESTAURANT operating on first floor of Terminal-1.We had only very small volume of luggage -19.90Kg for check-in and below 6kg for cabin. Sudhin wore only shorts for the whole trip of pilgrimage and a jacket for last leg of 5KMto the cave of Amaranath!. The flight was of INDIGO and no frill type (Also no thrill as well). We landed at Srinagar air-port at 10.45AM. We realized that there were 9 more passengers in our touring group. After lapse of 30 minutes, the representative came and we all 11 went to the hotel-HOTEL CENTRE POINT- booked for our stay – in Lal Chowk. We requested for room in the ground level only for, ease of moving and avoid climbing up-down frequently. After checking in, we relaxed for a while, had mineral water and then lunch. In the afternoon, at 14.30 hours, we left for seeing all gardens in Srinagar. We visited Chasmashahi, Shalimar bagh, and two more Mughal gardens. Dal Lake was at the centre as we drove to all gardens all along its perimeter. The stat of Dal Lake was very bad with foul smell coming from all directions. Wherever we looked, it was full of algae and growth of greenery below the surface of water. The lake was clean and crystal clear as I saw in 1972. Maintenance of the lake was very poor. We saw jettison of water at different locations of the lake which were also pumping a sort of dirty water all over. The temperature in Srinagar was 34.70 C highest in ten years and we were sweating to the core of our body. Night temperature was also fairly warm – being on set of summer in Srinagar. We wondered if we really need any additional warm clothing at all! Srinagar has its own scar of ongoing disturbance since decades, which has left a sort of ruins at different places. The city and outskirts were manned by army personnel with assault refile, literally two of them at a span of 3 meters with a truck full of soldiers at every 20 yards. We were told to keep our IDs and travel papers ready to be shown to any inspecting authorities during our movements. The police / security personnel were very descent, never asked any unwanted questions nor gave us any kind of nuisance. We returned to hotel by 19.30 hours, and had our dinner at 8PM. We were briefed about the next day’s trip – to helipad in the morning at 4 AM, and return after 8PM. It was expected that we board the helicopter at 7.30AM, reach the starting point to take mules for 6KM ride, to Sangam, then by Palkin /Doli ( one person is carried by FOUR persons till reaching the last point to climb the cave!, and this arrangement is called so. We also received our tickets for helicopter ride (by Pawan Hans operated by Government of India) We packed what is absolutely needed for the trip – flying, trekking, and for mule ride. Weight was always a concern for travel by helicopter and by mule, and of course by the individual as well. In travel like this towards climbing to reach a height of 14-15 thousands of feet, weight plays a very important role as it could aggravate breathing problems. We kept all other items separately, in our respective suitcases and locked them away in the room. I kept praying to Lord SIVA to arrest all kind of arrests (including cardiac!) till we return safely to the hotel and beyond! Very selfish indeed! DAY-4-SUNDAY THE 3rd OF JULY 2016. I got up at 2.50AM,and completed all my routines, followed by Sudhin. I consumed my usual / daily quota of TWO glasses of warm water.( I did not, eat or consume water or had the urge for any other body activities till back in the helipad at 4.15 PM.) No idea why? We all got ready, received packets for breakfast which I opened only after returning at 4.15PM) and left for the helipad – place named NEELGRATH - 85KM away from Srinagar. Being very early morning, we had checks at few points where brief inspections were carried out by concerned authorities. We reached the helipad entry point by 6.15 AM. I just realized that I have forgotten our tickets for boarding the helicopter. But then, it was possible to get replacement as the operator had our names in their master list!. With great difficulty managed to get replacement tickets, which was much easier than what followed next in the next few hours. Yes, the place was in utter chaos, with back log of passengers trying to board PAWAN HANS helicopter. Pawan Hans had 3 helicopters, one of which was grounded permanently. The other 2 had problems and were inspected between rides. A return sortie is completed in 20 minutes (up-down) and Pawan Hans with problems, could not compete with other private operators, who 300% bettered. The net result was a delay of 4 hours, for our flight to the location called PANJTARANI. (From here we had to take ponies for 6 kilometres). Finally after several attempts we were allowed to board at 11.20AM reaching PANJTARANI at 11.30.-the ride is just to cross 9KM only! We walked to the pony boarding point, hired one each pony for us and started climbing towards the cave precisely at 11.45 AM. I realised that these four legged animals are the most patient animals among their breed elsewhere!. The climb was very narrow and steep. When the pony climbs the rider must bend towards the front and vice-versa. My pony’s guide kept telling me to look around the nature and not the animal. Though I had the experience of riding a pony during my trip to Kedarnath, this ride was a real one with every chance of falling. It is impossible to walk thru the sharply stoned path, with the pony’s leg literally getting into it by good 8 inches. Human legs are flat and will get stuck. But there was a route all along nearby, for those who walk, where the terrain was slightly better, but longer to ride. The guide carried rain coats made of plastic besides a blanket made of Kashmiri sheep’s wool. When it drizzled slightly, we were covered with them and fortunately no rain was experienced. We never carried rain coats, contrary to the suggestion by my daughter-in-law Anushruthi. All other dress gear we did carry but of little use! (Like the, thermal wear). We reached the place called sangam. From here the cave was about 40 minutes by carriage and we hired one dole for each of us. We reached the footsteps separately and had good view of the ICE LINGAM.The arrangement is not like what is published by any tour operator or by promoters of Amaranath including the government of India. The ICE LINGAM is a good 15 feet away separated by a gate (like a wall) with peep holes above neck level to a height of another two feet. One has to peep through the wholes matching the height of the individual. No Pooja of any kind, only donation is invited. Photography is NOT allowed and devotees cannot carry anything. So, we entrusted our items with the dole persons. Fortunately we only lost a packet of mixed nuts, and a tooth brush/paste kit. One of them tried and used SUDHIN’s selfie stick to video graph movements around without realizing what was it meant for!. Therefore, what we lost was compensated. Cost of a tent to stay overnight is about Rs.1000.00 (Rupees one thousand only) and so is the cost of other essentials. A cup of tea is Rs.40.00, a glass (the size of a railway tea cup!) of hot water Rs.10.00.Cost of food is well above Rs.100.00. and so on. The bed is laid on a basic layer of heavy plastic, followed by several layers of woollen clothing and blankets. Many do stay due to climate going crazy and helicopters fail to operate for the same reason. We were fortunate, not to invite the wrath of Lord SIVA and were let off easily! Our return journey took lesser time than of climbing and we were at the PANJTARANI helipad precisely at 4.15PM. Suddenly hunger was all over the body! And we opened the breakfast packet and consumed the contents – banana, packet of juice, mixer, and large coconut cookie. It was surprising that we did not get the urge for eating food or drinking water till then nor we had the sense to use toilets at all. We paid to the pony rides and the dole carrier Rs.1000 each- totalling to Rs.4000.00. This was Rs.200 more, for we felt the hardship experienced by them. They were very happy too! Our return flight was not sure to fly back to NEEL GRATH, as there were backlog of passengers waiting for PAWAN HANS service. We nearly decided to hire a tent here too as at Sangam, for the day light was coming to close. Suddenly, there was bright sun light – which allowed the helicopter service to be extended beyond 18.30hours. We got our sortie at 6.25PM and we were at our base in NEELGRATH in the next ten minutes. Our transport was waiting at the place, where we were left in the morning. We waited for fellow passengers who were arriving by the next few sorties, while some had arrived earlier than us. Finally we left for our hotel at 8pm reaching there by 10PM. We had sumptuous dinner to our satisfaction. Here I have to write few lines about the food. The management and service staff are Kashmiri Muslims, and the chef from Nepal. The management told us, that they make food meant for vegetarian adults who come only for Pilgrimage and have hired an expert chef from Nepal. Self and Sudhin, consumed dry chapattis and vegetable curry besides liquid form of fried dal. There was pap pad, pickles, salads, fruits, cornflakes and milk .One day we had uppumav and another day poha (like uppumav made of flat rice), kheer in the night. We retired to bed, to be ready by 9.00AM next day for a trip to Gulmarg. DAY-5- MONDAY THE 4TH OF JULY 2006. I got up at around 2.30 AM, with pain around my legs, nearly stiffening the mussel, after applying tiger balm, walking few times, became alright. I just thought of the mules and the men who helped us in the morning and the very thought got rid of my leg pain. We got up as usual and completed all routines well before breakfast time-8AM. Most fellow tourists were up little late and so we could leave for GULMARG only at 9.30 am sharp. We reached Gulmarg, at 11.45 AM. The moment we reached the base, we were surrounded by local pony owners / guides and other persons. They offered a [price of Rs.1700perperson for a full circle of tour leading to the mountain top ( Aparvath)- passing the Ski institute, springs, temple, golf clubs and a water fall. Literally it is not possible to cover them all by visiting separately due to lack of time – we had to return by 5pm for our trip back to hotel. We negotiated a price of Rs.1200.00 per person, to cover all six places, and finally reaching the snow-capped top of the mountain. So, we set our ride by ponies and their guides 12.00 noon. There was fear of rain as it happened in the early hours of the day. Fortunately, no rain did come to upset us, till we boarded our vehicle at 4.45PM We walked thru’ the terrain which was as worst as the climbing route to Amaranath. I was in Gulmarg in 1972, but the terrain was not as bad as this time .The route was very narrow, but cannot be seen till approaching the edge, and was tough to manoeuvre. We reached the top at 2pm sharp and stayed there till 3PM.The scenic beauty has no comparison, despite the present conditions prevailed. The snow was dirty and very slippery. The vegetation around was beautiful and feast for eyes. The route here too was monitored by military personnel for obvious reasons. We returned to our starting point around 4.30PM, had tea and left for hotel at 5PM reaching there at 7.30PM sharp. The days climbing were more tiring and rest was needed and so, we had early dinner and retired to bed, as we have to leave for Delhi the next day. DAY-5- TUESDAY THE 6TH OF JULY. We completed all our routines and relaxing. The some of us wanted to visit the SIVA temple known as SANKARACHARYA TEMPLE - located half an hour from our hotel. The departure to air-port was set for 11.30 AM and we had plenty of time to visit the shrine. We hired auto rickshaws, (one for every two persons) and left hotel at 9.AM. We reached the temple in 15minutes. We were scanned and our belongings were retained with the auto drivers and we were then allowed to proceed to the temple, situated at 1100 feet ( 300 meters) above sea level. The steps were wide and spacious with resting platforms along the climb. This temple was built in 200 BC and was taken care by Sankaracharya DURING HISLIFE TIME HENCE THIS NAME. The temple is a very beautiful structure and simple in construction. One can feel peace of mind and sense of relief over many thoughts. The temple is surrounded by trees and the environment is very green. We returned to Hotel by 9.55AM. We once again verified all documents and tickets, ID cards etc, as the authorities were very strict due to sensitive state of affairs in Srinagar. WE WERE ADVISED TO PACK EVERYTHING TO BE CHECKED IN BAGGAGE ONLY- EXCEPT LAP-TOPS - this was also mentioned in the tickets. Therefore, we packed everything accordingly. We left for air-port at 11.35 AM, reaching there after the first security check by the military staff followed by the air-port security. The airline staff sealed all bags which did not have locks (as, many were NOT aware of placing all lug gages as checked-ins.) It took one hour and forty five minutes for completing these formalities which otherwise takes few minutes. We then were asked to identify our luggage prior to boarding. I wondered why a passenger exiting from the state need to be screened as above. Incoming passengers are checked / screened for obvious reasons but not clear of the necessity for the same on exit passengers. The flight was delayed by 30 minutes and landed at Terminal-1 in Delhi air-port, precisely at 17.00 hours. We were in for welcome by Maj.General Satish Kumar Gupta – Retired, who was waiting near gate-7.After brief chat we left for the military guest house situated at the cantonment. So came to a conclusion, our pilgrimage to Amaranath and return to normal fold of family. POSTSCRIPT: There were incidents / observations of various natures during the trip. 1. I forgot the Helicopter tickets – though could get duplicates at the counter of Pawan Hans. 2. Had long chat with the owner of the Hotel who gave more bull than facts about Srinagar. 3. The pony owners took away my toothpaste – brush kit, but left the paper wrap, discovered only after returning to Coimbatore!. 4. The dole fellows, took away the mixed nuts pack, affectionately sent by Anushruthi. 5. Two times, I nearly slipped to my right side (never slipped to the wrong side!) while riding the mules. 6. At Gulmarg, nearly slipped from soiled heap of mud / mini rocks, but Sudhin placed his foot down to stop the sliding. Sudhin took a photo later me sitting on a near-by rock – nicknamed – THE SLIPPING POINT OF DADDY! 7. Did not eat food or drank water from 02.50AM till 16.15 hours on the day we visited Amaranath cave. 8. LPG was used for boiling water, using a device exactly equal to instant water heater using electricity. Gas is pumped through a fine and controlled nozzle which burns at its tips heating a pot of water that has a dispensing pipe. The cost Rs.10 per small cup. 9. The temple has no arrangement for usual activities like those in other places. Simple worship of Lord SIVA in the form of ICE LINGAM. 10. The stream of water from Sangam to climbing area near the temple were just flow of ice only. 11. The walking distance has full of flaked ice like sand and one has to be careful while walking, though there is a railing by rope for support. I slipped twice, but was taken care by my dole carrier. 12. All the mule operators and dole (also known as palkins) carriers were just wearing normal clothing and wrapped themselves with a sheep wool blanket covering top- to toe. .