Thiruannamalai Visit

THIRUANNAMALAI VISIT Few months ago, I received a call from Mr.Hariharan, SIL of my co-brother Shri.Krishnan (retired and living in Tanjavur) – about a possible trip to Thiruannamalai during the month June 2014. Hariharan works and lives in Delhi. Swetha Hari, Kala Hari ,Hari, Me and My wife.(Mrs.K.S.Sarojam) We exchanged mails and left the subject matter to be reviewed prior to June 2014. In the mean time, I checked about the place as of this year, for, I had been there (My first visit) in the early 1960s with my parents, brothers and sisters. I saw photos and descriptions of the city and shrines, primarily about Ramanashram . Bhagavan Shri. Ramana Maharshi was a simple saint and spent most of his time in prayers. At the time of my first visit I could see the Samadhi of Shri.Ramana, his cow, his crow and his dog. They were in a line and just protected from weather by way of a shelter over them. I also read about the expansion of the ashram, besides development of other ones set by various other swamis and saints. I was in Delhi (from the year 1969) and had the privilege of attending a discourse in the early 1970s, at Ramana Kendra near Birla Mandir. I did not absorb the entire discourse, but realized that a lot of good matters were conveyed that suited every one. The plan to visit was confirmed in the first week of May 2014-a month ahead of the set date of travel, as tickets had to be booked for Hari and family.(Hari, Mrs.Kala Hari and Swetha the daughter). They were to reach Tanjur and come from there to Thiruannamalai by train or bus and we (self and my wife Sarojam) reach the place either before, after or simultaneously – depending on the mode of travel. I spent some time trying to find the best route for reaching Tiruannamalai with minimum hours of travel. To start with, I studied railway maps, railway time table and local websites, besides asking my daughter Sheeba for better guidance.( Sheeba visit places of interest once or twice a year and hence had lot of experience in locating best options for mode of transport, accommodation and a list of places of interest around the main area of visit. I visited local bus station after making a call. I was told about a day time service to Thiruannamalai – leaving Coimbatore at 9AM and reaching there by 5.00PM and reservation was not required, just to reach the bus stop by 8.45 AM and board the bus. Hari booked accommodation at the Ashram from Delhi using the services at Ramana Kendra. So, that side of the necessity was taken care. Then came the dilemma of dresses, - to suit the climate prevailing at Thruannamalai in June 2014.We packed a mixer of winter and summer clothing, dothis / sarees plus the toiletries. I took only one pair of pants besides two T shirts for wearing at night. Travel to Thruannamalai We set out at 8 AM on the 5th of June 2014, by a call taxi and reached the bus stop, where the bus to Thiruannamalai was parked and was set to leave by 9AM. The conductor was passenger friendly and gave us brief about the number of stops en-route to Thiruannamalai – particularly breaks for tea / coffee/ lunch or for any natural needs. Being a day time travel, we could experience nature’s display around with gentle breeze flowing through the windows of the bus and cooling the space. We noticed, many coconut trees were became dry and many had their head missing, about to be felled for use as fire wood or for lighter constructions. There were plenty of mango trees with mangoes nearly covering the leaves and were ready to be harvested. The fragrance from the leaves and plants were like specific scented air passing through us. We received call from Hari, and exchanged SMS frequently to find who will arrive at Thiruannamalai earlier. As a matter of habit, we do not consume anything from outside, but always carried a small quantity of simple stuff for consumption during long distance travel. This time also, we carried small quantities of chapattis, vegetable curry, and curd rice, besides two bottles of drinking water. We reached the main bus stop which we learned closer to the railway station. We learned that Hari and family were arriving later than us- due to slight delay of the train they were travelling, and decided to welcome them. We got down at the bus stop, and auto drivers guided us to the railway station which was just 7 minutes away. The time table revealed that the train was arriving at 18.00 hours and was there on the dot. (Though was late by 40 minutes or so.) Hari, hurriedly procured cups of tea for me and Saro and brought them to us, as we did not go to the platform. There was hardly any distance from the station hall to the platform and hence our decision to stay back. We then took a three wheeler (Auto rickshaw) to Sri Ramanasgram. ENTRANCE TO SRI RAMANASHRAM Hari managed to complete the formalities and obtained keys of rooms reserved for us. We went to our rooms, (Walk able distance of 10 minutes) washed over selves, changed our dresses and were in the ashram for our first meal (dinner at 7.30PM). The atmosphere was cool, and it rained as well, and breezy. We could hear chirping of birds, see the greenery around and gentle breeze taking over us and compelling to go for sleep. We spent some time in the veranda of the ashram building as it was drizzling. Our rooms were presentable and clean by all standards, well maintained by the ashram authorities. Entrance our accommodation Our Room Interior The rooms had meshed windows to stop mosquitoes from attacking and taking over us. We then charted a plan for the next day as to where to visit first and lead towards what in an order to save time and to avoid duplication of plans. We all were very strict about our meals which are timed to suit all visitors staying within the complex. So, first decision was not to miss any meals – breakfast, lunch or dinner, and did not worry too much about not having tea at 4PM. It was decided to leave room by 6.30 on the next day- 06th of June 2014, complete breakfast by 7.00,and go for taking a round of the mountain that houses the temple of Lord Arunachala ( Lord Siva). Day ONE – 6th June 2014 Friday. We woke up to the tune of peacocks and other birds from the surrounded trees, completed all the morning routines, carried enough water for quenching our thirst as and when needed, and small portion of snacks for en-route consumption. After consuming breakfast we started for the venture of our life time!!. Here is the secret for going round (GIRIVALAM) the mountain.(Giri- means mountain and valam means going around) by walk.)- must walk barefooted. (Wearing foot wear, wear out our punyas and ads up to sins further!!) The Holy Mountain of Arunachala rises up with an elevation of 2669 feet (800 m). The Road encircling the mountain where devotees circumbulate is 8 1/2 miles which is 14 kms long. On Full Moon days and festival days (like Karthigai, first day of the Tamil month, Tamil New Year day) hundreds of thousands of devotees circumbulate (GIRIVALAM) the mountain and get the blessings of the Lord Arunachala. Though devoid of vegetation the hill stands in prominence amidst picturesque surroundings and is visible for miles around. This hill is of Igneous rock (connected with fire) which is one of the four kinds of mountains classified by geology. So one sees the truth behind the tradition regarding the origin and formation of this hill. Our religious philosophy is based on science and there is always the combination of Vignana and Meygnana. These two are inextricably intertwined. An American Geologist has stated about this mountain thus:- "Arunachala should have been thrown up by the earth under the stress of some violent volcanic eruption in the dim ages before even the coal-bearing strata were formed. This rocky mass of granite may be dated back to the earliest epoch of the history of our planet's crust, that epoch which long preceded the vast sedimentary formation in which fossil records of plants and animals have been preserved. It existed long before the gigantic saurians of the pre-historic world moved their ungainly forms through the primeval forests that covred our early earth. It was contemporaneous with the formation of the very crust of earth itself. Arunachala was almost as hoary and as ancient as our planetary home itself"." It was indeed a remnant of the vanished continent (Kumarikandam) of Eunken Lemuria, of which the indigenous legends still keep a few memories. The Tamil traditions not only speak of the vast antiquity of this and other hills, but assert that Himalayas were not thrown up till later. Untold centuries, therefore, pressed their weight upon this time defying pile which arose so abruptly from the plains. The whole peck offers no pretty panorama of regular outline, straight sides and balanced proportions, but rather the reverse. Even its base wanders aimlessly about an eight mile circuit, with several spurs and foot hills, as though unable to make up its mind as to when it shall come to an end. Its substance is nothing but igneous and laterise rock". What a miracle! Such a barren rock has captivated the souls of sages and saints for ages together. Legends say that Tiruvannamalai was a fire (Agni) mountain in Krathayuga, Gold (Swarna) mountain in Thrathayugha, Copper (Thambra) mountain in Duvaparayuga and rock mountain in this Kaliyuga. Arunachala hill has a high status in our sacred tradition and Tamil legends hold that it is far more ancient than the Himalayas which are comparatively known to be of later origin. Arunachala is a combination of two Sanskrit words Aruna and Achala. Aruna means 'red' and Achala means ' immovable' mount, there by known as "Red Mount". It is also called the "Hill of the Holy Beacon" and "Hill of the Holy Fire". The philosophers would give another interpretation for the word Arunachala. Aruna is force(Sakthi) and Achala is Shiva i.e. that which cannot be moved. The Hill therefore represents Shiva and Parvathi. There is still another interpretation Aruna means "Free from Bondage" and Achala means "motionless, steady". The true inner meaning of the word is that one can attain salvation only by concentration on God free from wordly bondage. The popular Tamil name is "Annamalai" which is also a combination of two words 'Anna' and 'malai'. Anna or "attained" and malai means hill. This denotes the story of dispute between Brahma and Vishnu and the philosophic truth behind it. From an inscription in the temple and from the Sanskrit work "Sahitya Retnakara" it is seen that the hill is called as Sonachala(Red Mount). The hill is regarded as Tejo linga(the fire symbol of God) or Jothi linga. It stands at the rear end of the town and the temple is at the foot of the hill. So, we – all being less sinners, and not willing to further add to our sins, decided to leave our footwear behind and set out for the round trip barefooted. It was very interesting to commence the venture, a marathon like walk in the name of ultimate sacrifice – in proving our faith in ourselves and in Lord Siva which slowly gathered momentum. As we walked, could feel the pinch by grains of sand, stone particles and various debris under our feet, gradually intensifying the stress causing more strain and our pretention to bear it, as we walked talking about various holy matters and shrines visited etc;(to ease the pain.) and to boost our diminishing confidence!. We also spoke to passers-by inquiring about the remaining distance to cover by walk and the temples we are supposed to visit on the way reaching the main temple of Lord Arunachala. There were way side eateries, shops and temples, ashrams for necessary support of walkers like us. We nearly visited every important temple and finally reached the main temple. The important one being, Sri Arunachaleswar temple. Arunachaleswar temple.(Thirukoil) We, finally reached the main temple at the end of our marathon walk, and entered the open space laid with granite slabs. They were nearly boiling and the walk ways across them were covered with coir mats, (Frequently sprinkled with water, to keep them cool.) The temple was magnanimous and gigantic in all respects. We talk about modern buildings, which are built with mechanized facilities, but these temples with heavier structures, were constructed purely using human power and lasted to this day without any damage due to natural calamities. We saw devotees from all over the world, coming here to praise the architecture, worship the Lord, and enjoy the nature and admire the historical value of this town. We had to pass thru, gates of scanners and physical checks before entering the temple premises. With current state of affairs of the so called terror culture, this kind of checks, were initiated to protect the temple and the visitors from being damaged. My visits to new places of worship, was always for learning about the architecture, art and the associated skills in building them and thank all involved in making this possible and those who maintain them. Government spends a lot of money in maintaining them and preserving them for the posterity. The other reasons for my visit to a new temples, is to buy memento and eatables freshly made for the devotees. We did not forget our meal time was fast approaching and retired to the ashram for lunch. Sathanur Dam: Sathanur Dam is one of the Major Dam Constructed across Pennaiyar River among Chennakesava Hills. This Dam was constructed during the year 1958. It has beautiful parks and a mini zoo. The garden is dotted with colorful statues. There is a swimming pool and a crocodile farm. We inquired for visiting Sathanur Dam nearby, but we were advised not to go there as there was nothing at that time. I recalled my visit to the dam park, where plants were lit with colored pigmy lights in those days – on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays. A good number of movie shootings were held in the 1960s.( Same like Mysore Brindavan in Karnataka) As such decided to visit Amman temple close to main temple of Shri.Arunachaleswar ( Lord Siva ) We spent time studying the structure and its hand carved beauty admiring the architecture of this marvelous structure. The climate was pleasant, breezy with cloudy sky. It rained again, but without causing inconvenience to us. We were home by evening and had our dinner on time and spent post dinner time in the ashram complex and in our rooms planning for the next day. Day TWO- 7th June 2014 Saturday We got up very early, and charted the program for the day. There was a cave over the mountain behind the ashram called VIRUPAKSHA cave, where Shri.Ramana Maharshi spent some days in his early days on yoga and prayer. After breakfast, we climbed over the peak and passed thru the vegetation en-route to the cave. Here also there were many small huts and temples in the name Lord Siva. The mountain was full of vegetation and trees with blooming flowers. We visited the cave and few other places where Maharshi had lived in his early life. The view of temples from top of the hill was enchanting and feast to the eyes with breathtaking beauty. Our ancestors around View of Real temples from the hill top. We walked down from the rear side of the mountain, which took us to the main temple where we spent more time than the previous day. On the way down we saw a sculpture carving / chiseling models of various Gods, temples etc; We purchased one small stone model of a cow carved using soft stone. In the temple we saw an exact replica of the temples (As we saw from top of the hill) boxed and kept for viewing. Model of Temples boxed and kept in the temple hall. We returned to Ashramam for lunch and brief rest. In the afternoon, we decided to visit the neighboring ashrams, temples and places of interest. Therefore, we walked through and visited following places: Yogi Ram Surathkumar Ashram: Yogi Ram Surathkumar Ashram, also known as Visiri Samiyar Ashram, is one of the beautiful places in the Town. It is situated near the Ramana Ashram. Devotees from all over the world visit Yogi Ram Surathkumar Ashram. He attained mukthi in the year of 2000. We received prasadam and prayed for everyone. There were photos of his parents, display of his teachings on the walls along with his vision. We also visited Sri Seshadri Swamigal Ashram: Mahan Sri Seshadri Swamigal lived in the late 20th Century. Sri Seshadri Swamigal Ashram is one of the holy places in this Town. People from all over the world visit his Ashram, which is situated near the Sri Ramana Ashram. The Garden in this Ashram attracts the people who visit here. We spent balance of time wandering around the close by shops and vendors, selling fruits, mementos etc; We then decided to take the night bus back to Coimbatore to save on day travel and arrive home at the earliest. We bade farewell to Hari and family and took night bus leaving at 8PM. We reached home at 4.25 AM (Yes precisely – in Coimbatore at 4 AM and by auto reached home around 4.25) Total cost of our tour was Rs.3600.00 (Rupees three thousand six hundred only) Narrated and completed by V.Sivasubramanaim 16th August 2014