Visit to the shrine of Vaishnava Devi
I was on my day off from work on Sunday the 21st of April 1974. Ever since I came to Ghaziabad in 1969, I was visiting Haridwar and Rishikesh every summer.
This year I wanted go to a different place for a change. I heard about many places around this region, and wondered which could be economical for travel with an equally cheaper accommodation.
As I was thinking on these lines, I came across the latest issue of The Illustrated weekly of India, with picture of Vaishnava Devi route on its cover page with a caption. The very first sight of this picture triggered an instant desire to go there without wasting any more time.
An yearly trip to Haridwar and Rishikesh was well within my budget- covering - return bus fare, accommodation for three nights and meals at chotiwala restaurant- at Rishikesh, (while I had free food at the AYYAPPA TEMPLE in Haridwar and all it needed was a fair donation to the temple.)- all for Rs.100.00 maximum, besides collecting few pots of crystal clear Ganges water, to be taken home to my native place in Kerala, for giving to people who could not venture to these holy places.
So, Vaishnava Devi trip needed at least three to four times my yearly budget to cover the trip. Having decided to go to J&K for a full circle, I started calculating the various costs involved. I know that my regular monthly remittance to my parents cannot suffer under any condition, no matter what else I do in my routines.
I wanted to find out all relevant information by myself and go for this trip. Leave was not a problem as I already applied for 15 days for a brief holiday cum rest in April 74.
As a first step, I read the whole article in the weekly, and noted all valid points. The guidelines simply mentioned about the buses plying from ISBT,- Delhi and ,Trains leaving from New Delhi, places of interest in Jammu including the temple of Lord Shri Ram etc;
I requested my boss on the next day- 22-4-74 and explained everything to him and requested for a day off on 27-4-74. He agreed and thanked me for letting him know in advance.
As I was counting days towards the end of the month, had no money and so, I borrowed, Rs.100 from my uncle. On the early morning of 27-4-74, I left for Kashmiri gate interstate bus terminal in Delhi. (ISBT)
I could have traveled by train, but my choice was always a deluxe bus as it had seats like those in aircrafts and very comfortable. I went to the counter and requested for a ticket to Jammu. I could get a reservation for 29-4-74, and there were no tickets for the next few days. So, I decided to go for it and purchased it for Rs.33.15 – 15 paisa for reservation and Rs. 33 for the actual ticket.
I also procured a hat for Rs.5.50 – as it was suggested to have one while traveling in the cooler places of Kashmir. (Later I had to spare Rs.10, for my brother for some urgent expenses.)
After booking my ticket, I consulted few people who were also going to Jammu but not along with me on 29-4-74. One of them appeared to be a veteran who had been to the shrine many times in the past few years. I addressed him as Dadaji as I did not want to address him as Mr.Singh as there were so many Sikh gentlemen there.
He told me of the safety precautions needed to be taken while climbing uphill, and advised me to hire all relevant items from the base shop in Katara- from where the actual journey begins. He asked me to carry enough woolen clothing besides a heavy cap. I showed him the hat I purchased and he nodded his head in affirmative.
He suggested that I should take this opportunity to visit Kashmir as well. He suddenly became very happy and told me of the location in Pahalgam where the film Bobby was shot and he was very proud to be there as one of few spectators then. He gave me a budget figure of Rs.350.00, this sounded very high for me in those days.
I thanked him and came back to Ghaziabad as I had to get my leave sanctioned from next day, for 15 days.
I went to the factory, and applied for leave and got clearance immediately. I told my fellow staff about my forthcoming trip, and each one wanted something from there. One wanted PRASAD from Matha vaishnava Devi, and others, fresh apples from Kashmir. They mentioned walnut which is offered to Devi.
I worked till late night and came home by midnight only.
I had a problem. The bus to Jammu was scheduled to leave at 5.30 AM sharp on 29-4-74. My uncle advised me to stay with any of the family friends in Delhi preferably closer to ISBT.
I wanted to travel very light despite being told of about the harsh / cold conditions in J&K region. I packed one heavy blanket, sweater, two full sleeve shirts, two pairs of pants, inner clothing, shaving set and toiletries a padlock with two keys, and a towel. People usually carried a pad lock of their own to lock their rooms in strange places.My uncle gave me a large size NIVEA cream for application while in colder areas. I also carried with me an empty bag to bring in any stuff from J&K
The next day – on 28-4-74, I went to one Mr.Pazayannoor mama who was living close to ISBT. He enquired about the reason for my sudden rush to Vaishnava Devi Shrine, and I told him that I had a dream to make a visit without any delay. He laughed at me, but could not say much on my answer.
I got up very early on 29-4-74, and completed all my morning routines. I had coffee offered and bade good-bye to them, and rushed to ISBT to catch the Deluxe bus to Jammu.I was early to catch the bus. So, decided to kill the time by reading a news paper – Hindustan Times for 25 paisa.
All passengers were arrived promptly, probably were first timers and excited to visit the shrine. The bus left ion time. The seats were fastened to the chassis firmly and so, there was little vibration though the bus was on full throttle. As we traveled, could see beautiful landscapes on either side and wondered if I was in India. The breeze kept the cool inside the coach, and most passengers were covering themselves with a light shawl and a head gear.
Travel always, increases the appetite of any person even if he or she is a sick one. I could feel my stomach making gestures demanding some stuff to be pushed thru’ my mouth. I saw some people asking the conductor in whispering voice about the stop-over for breakfast- they don’t want others to know of their anxiety for food and want to cover the starving gesture on the face.
The bus finally came to a halt somewhere on the road, and the conductor announced gracefully FIFTEEN minutes for breakfast. Literally every one rushed out and jumped to the closest chair taking one or two on the sides for their friends / relatives. Though I was very hungry, I did not want to rush for food, as I felt ashamed to be greedy for it. So, I went to the available counter and ordered poori baaji and coffee. I got chana instead of potato baaji. I consumed enough to hold myself till lunch time. The coffee was a kind of sweetened brown water. Most people consumed tea only and enjoyed it. So, I decided to go for tea during the remainder part of the trip.
I paid Rs.3.50 for this not so sumptuous food.
There were fruit shops around, and many passengers were purchasing something or the other to keep off hunger till the next meal. I purchased a kilo of oranges for Rs.2 only. I felt this was costly but not costlier compared to shops in Karol Bagh – Delhi.
I kept consuming oranges one by one as we traveled further. I had to do it, for I do not want to rush for the next meal, and also had no carry bag to retain the oranges for long. The conductor was explaining about the neighborhood and informed that the bus will reach Jammu precisely at 5PM. The climate was cool with bright sun. There was Greenery around.
I was falling asleep, but at the same time thinking about my room, home in South India, possible appearance of Devi – as most of the south Indian Goddesses were different in attire and appearance depending which part they were worshipped.
I remember seeing the faces of Devis- Mariamman / Kali Amman all having faces resembling to some of the actresses who took to their roles in films. In fact, my friends always visited the local temples during public celebrations of special days, where many canvases were displayed Devis with faces as I mentioned above. So, I imagined all sorts of designs of faces of Matha Vaishnava Devi, including that of my mother who at times was unbearable and furious.
Suddenly, I heard people rushing out- again for some food. I was having a full stomach and felt not so hungry. Then I decided to taste some samosa with hot tea. Punjabi samosa is very famous and is of fairly big in size. I also procured some fruits for offering in the temple at Jammu. In all I paid Rs.1.55.
We passed thru’ Sonepat, Panipat, Karnal, Kurukshethra, Ambala, Ludhiana,Jalandar and Ludhiana.
We arrived at the bus stop at 5PM. I had no difficulty in reaching the INN which was very close by.
I went to the INN and approached the INN-keeper for a room. I was given a very large hall. I enquired about this, I was told a large group had just cancelled the booking and the whole place was available.
I paid an advance of Rs.10.00 for the room. After completing a mini bath, I locked the room with my own padlock and left for the temple with the fruits I procured for offering to Lord Rama. Actually the accommodation was by Jammu government and available free of charge. My payment was actually a kind of deposit for safekeeping my belongings.
The temple was of North Indian Architecture and quite different from temples in South. Looked around and the place was quiet as there were only few people around. I quickly gave the fruits to a person appeared to be the priest. I requested him to conduct a formal pooja and give away the fruits to poor people around. I paid 25 paisa for this holy act.
Then, I went into a close by restaurant. This was a turning point in my tour. The restaurant was crowded and still, there were special space for family or group of people. While I was trying to find my way to such private place, an elderly gentle man introduced himself and enquired if I can join him for dinner upstairs. I learnt that he was a retired director of J&K tourism and was on a visit to Jammu from Kashmir.
While waiting for dinner, we spoke of many things needing improvement in the Tourism sector. He told me that he had give a very vast proposals and suggestions before his retirement – like proper care of pilgrims at the Temple side of Matha Vaishnava Devi.
He was returning to Srinagar on the First of May and offered a seat in the same bus. He told me that the state Capital workforce relocated their offices twice a year-Srinagar being Summer capital and Jammu for winter. He also, gave me a reference of a tourist operator for me to meet the next day and go round for a tour of Jammu.
He asked me to meet him at the Jammu bus-stop by 11AMon 1-5-74. He offered to pay for my dinner and I declined it politely. I paid Rs.1.50 for my dinner and left.
I went to my room and retired for the day, once again thinking about the events of the day.
I woke up the next day – Tuesday the 30th of April. I got up early, completed all my routines, and went to meet the tour operator. He saw the note by the Ex-Director of Tourism and straight away added me to his entourage leaving at 8AM.
He did not take any charges for the tour. We went to the Amar mahal Palace and many temples, and forts around Jammu -Including art galleries. During the break, I clarified with the tour guide in the bus, what is the best way to have a quick Darshan of Vaishnava Devi. He told me to go to Katra in the evening and leave for the shrine at 6 AM in the morning. He told me that it is possible to come back to the base by 10AM.
The tour was over well before 5 in the evening and I came to my room, vacated after a quick shower. Then I left for Katara and reached there by 7PM. Here also, the room was spacious and clean. I met a guide who was available just opposite to my accommodation. In fact, all the help was there in the form of shops with guides.
One could get human carriers for sick and aged people who cannot walk on their own, pony for carrying old but healthy people and material for other people- such as rope, canvas shoes, walking stick, shawl etc; I booked for a pair of canvas shoes – as I had only leather shoes. I had to procure a soap and snow. I did not want to consume the entire box of expensive Nivea – made in West Germany.
On the first of May, 1974, I was standing at the entrance of one of the base camp shops at 5.30 AM.I had breakfast for Re.1.00 and hired the items for my climbing expedition.
One has to believe that I did not feel tired of my running up-down, but was getting stronger by every minute. I was at the entrance of the shrine by 8 in the morning. I was asked to have a dip or at-least sprinkling of water from the fountain at the entrance of the temple. Then I went inside the cave bare footed, and could see star like lights all around and above me. The priests – I think there were three of them in all, forced me to leave fast, but I just sat down and refused to leave. There were hardly any rush and I kept looking all over the place.
Then one of the poojaris, asked me to offer something and put it on the plate he directed. I had items for pooja, procured from the base camp for Rs.3.00 and gave it to him. He then asked me to donate some money for poor people. I refused telling that I too am a poor person and will only share food with equally poor people. The funniest part is, the few people around me were also watching and agreeing with a smile.
Then the Head priest – who introduced himself so, asked me to finish my darshan and go quickly. This gave me a second chance to see the interior of the cave.
The whole worship was over in minutes and I came out very happily. Took breakfast and gave away food – Chapattis only- to few poor people who were on the way back to Katara. (Cost 5 Rs. only)
Coming down was very easy, as it was down trend. I was thirsty and consumed juices to the value of Re.1.50.
I was at the base camp at 10 AM. I took a bus to Jammu for catching my transport to Srinagar – deadline of 11 AM approaching fast. Buses to Srinagar were not allowed to leave after 11 AM for safety reasons as the entire road was contour and with many hairpin bends.
I was in the Jammu bus-stop precisely at 10.55 and met the gentle man who was waiting for my arrival, as I have not paid for the ticket.
The bus was not full, had few more seats left but I was the last person to board for Srinagar.I paid the fare of Rs.17.50 to the conductor who gave me a ticket in return.
The trip was very pleasant, and the coldness of the breeze intensified as we approached Srinagar. My Ex- director friend bade farewell to me at the Srinagar bus-stop. e recommended one Gujarat Bahwan – a totally vegetarian hotel and lodge in the middle of the market place ( lal Chowk). The city was quiet in the evening and those who were walking were fully covered with shawls / blanket.
I enquired about the Gujarati Bahwan and went there. There was a person by name Moorthy. He told me that the lodge is totally vacant, as all the trains were cancelled due to some strike. This lodge was always booked by agents for people arriving from southern part of India including Bombay.
The facilities were very good for the value of money I paid only Rs.10 as advance rent. Moorthy told me that t5his lodge belonged to a minister who wanted all visitors be taken care and given a good impression about Srinagar.
I had the best Gujarathi food that night, and was very happy about the VIP treatment I had there and thanked the railways for canceling all trains to Jammu.
I woke up very early in the morning – 2nd of May 74,– 5.30 AM. Hot water was kept in a very large container almost the size of a 200 liter drum. I found it to be at near boiling point and called Moorthy and accused him of trying to evaporate me. He very coolly said, please don’t waste your time, just take your bath and other needs or else, the very same water will be changing to near freezing point in few minutes.
I used the water for all my routine and believe me what Moorthy said was true and I could feel the hot water turning into cold water faster than I thought. I had breakfast again, I insisted for chapattis / pooris or kachoris with hot tea – as many cups as I could get.
Moorthy guided me to the bus stop from where I could get buses to various parts of Srinagar. I took a bus to Dal lake. / Chasmasahi gardens etc;
I was alone shouting and making all sorts of joyful expressions from the middle of the garden. The garden was so large; no one could have heard me at all. There were apple trees behind the garden. The apples were just getting the shape of lemon, and too early for consumption. I asked the gardener if I can get good Kashmiri apples else where. He gave me the location in the market.
I walked a lot and consumed plenty of fragrant Kashmir tea by cups of larger size.
In the evening, as I got down near the city – with an intention of seeing the surroundings, I came across one Mr.Sharif – an exporter of Kashmiri handicrafts. He was a fair young person, well behaved and very decent. He was looking for an associate, who was to come by one of those cancelled trains.
When he realized, the cause, he was very disappointed and felt very sad. He asked me if I can join him to see a movie named GET CARTER. In Srinagar, cinemas have only one show in the evening – 7P.M. so, we went for the movie. During the intermission, we spoke of mutual matters of interest. He was surprised that I’m a Brahmin from South and did not attach my surname – Iyer to my name. I told him the same explanation to him as well. - That I want to be a Brahmin by good manners and not having a surname and practice everything odd.
The picture was over before 9PM, and Sharif offered me a drink followed by dinner. Since he knew by now that I’m a vegetarian, he took me to a bar and then to a place where I could get only chapattis.
I joined him for a quick sip of whisky- about two pegs in all, with some salted nuts. Then we had our dinner. He gave me his address in Delhi and we bade farewell to each other and departed to our own places.
I reached my Hotel, and Moorthy was waiting to see me and already made dinner. He told that I was the only guest in the Hotel and he made everything special for me. So, I had dinner with him
Moorthy reminded me of the routines for the next day morning and asked me to be cautious on hot water from getting it colder. Moorthi offered me help min booking my ticket back to Jammu and I agreed for it.
One more day was over and it was 3rd of May 74. I wanted to see the Dal lake area again as I could not cover it the previous day. I went to a different location of the lake. The lake was far cleaner and there were several shikaras for hire.
I got into one of the big ones nearby. The owner wanted me to take me for a ride. I was not in a mood to go for one. I gave his son Re.1 for any necessary expenses.
I had rice for lunch – Dal and Kashmiri Vegetarian pulav. I returned by evening and this time, no other engagements.
My dinner at the Hotel was ready. Moorthy had booked for me to leave for Jammu on 6th May 74.
I had, two more days and decided to visit, Pahalgam and then Sona Marg and Gulmarg.
I went to Sona Marg on the next day- 4th of May 74. The place was in full snow, and I could not bear the cold there. I kept consuming hot tea and chapattis. There are no words available in any dictionary to describe the beauty of the valley of Kashmir. I could not go for skewing, but could enjoy the beauty of the whole place. I came to my hotel room and had food.
Moorthy, some how saw my NIVEA cream tin and asked me if I can spare it for him. In return, he offered to waive the food cost and rent for two days. He explained that he needed such a cream as he had to stay during the up-coming winter. I found the offer very attractive as I was draining my pocket faster than planned. So my boarding and lodging was literally free.
On Sunday the 5th of May I went to Pahalgam, and spent the whole day there. I visited the place where shooting for film BOBBY took place. I also took a photo using the services of a tourist photographer, I were advised to collect it from their studio in Srinagar the next day. I paid Rs.40.00 for six copies. Two of them were to be hand colored.
Here is a wonderful experience. In Pahalgam, as I was walking around the open area beautified by nature, few people were posing a challenge to others. There was a stream of water passing in front of us. The width was about THREE METERS. All one has to do is just walk over it step by step. It sounded easy. The reward was Rs.100 for any successful person.
I thought it is probably the easiest, challenge for any one. NOT, exactly. I removed my shoes, socks and got ready to cross the stream. In the meantime, many tried and came back running within few steps.
I stepped into the stream – taking my right foot – a belief before taking a new step in a new place. There were about a Dozen people watching me silently. I could not put down my right leg for the third time, as it was already getting frozen, and I rushed back fearing frostbite which could paralyze my leg for ever.
No one was able to accomplish the challenge. Then the person, who initiated this challenge, told us that many have tried in the past and could not succeed. Only, persons from colder countries could take up similar challenges. This stream is in the photo, I took at this place.
I spent the whole day walking around all areas. I was warned not to go further, as there was menace of wolves. I returned to my hotel room and had dinner as usual. My lunch was at Pahalgam, in another Gujarathi hotel. I paid Rs.4.50 for a full lunch – unlimited quantity. The side dishes were served in very small stainless bowls, but were refilled as many times as one wanted – but not to waste. I had poori as main dish and small quantity of rice towards the end. The pickles were sweet in taste and delicious.
I came back to Hotel by 7 P.M. Moorthy wanted me to give him the NIVEA container as promised. He provided me with the best food again.
Now, I thought of my return trip to Delhi. I checked my balance and assured myself that I will reach Delhi safely.
The next day – Monday the 6th of May, I was once again ready by 6 AM, but this time going back to Delhi. I had to wait till 9 AM – to collect the photos from the studio. In the meantime, I had my simple breakfast. Moorthy told me that, the Railway strike was over and the first batch of tourists for his Hotel were expected in the evening. This was an assurance for me that I will get train to Delhi from Jammu.
I thanked all the Gods- known and unknown for making my trip most economical and best under the prevailing conditions.
I settled all my bills with Moorthy and left for my return trip to Delhi. I collected the photos, and kept them safely. I had in my luggage, a kilo of Kashmiri apples, walnuts and some literature about J&K.
I took my bus to Jammu which reached the destination by 6PM. I had dinner at the railway station. (I.R.R) I could get a reserved berth for Delhi, in the Jammu Tawi Express which left late at night.
I reached New Delhi station around 10.00 AM on Tuesday, the 7th of May 1974,completing my first ever trip to Kashmir Valley.
I checked the balance amount in my possession, and found it to be 25 Paisa. Now, I needed to find a way to reach Ghaziabad before too late.
I had a novel idea. There was no time to find any relatives, and so, decided to take help from the SHO-(Station House Officer) working in the police station just close to New Delhi station. This is located as you come out of the station on the right side, and above the bridge.
When I entered the station, the SHO was sitting there and no one was around. I explained everything to him and requested for Rs.3 Rupees. He gave me Rs.5 and, I promised to give it back to him on my next off-day which a working day for the SHO.
I came back to New Delhi Railway station and took a train which was leaving for Ghaziabad at 11.30. I was home by 2PM. There was no need to inform any one as I was still on leave.
I slept well till the evening and got up before sun-set. I got up and started my daily evening routines once again, under the shadow of my ever green trip to Vaishnava Devi and, Kashmir Valley.
The cost of my whole trip came to Rs.355.00 (Rupees three hundred and fifty-five only)
During the next week, I went to New Delhi and met the SHO. He was shocked and surprised to see me that too with an intention of returning his FIVE RUPEES borrowed a week ago. He thanked for my honesty and refused to take the money back. On the contrary, he offered me any more help any time in the future.
After few years, I learned that he was transferred to a different place elsewhere in the union territory.
Above article is based on my notes kept during the trip in 1974. which is available with me.
There is only one picture that too taken by a way side photographer as above.
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